What to do in Queensland

Clare Walsh embarks on an unforgettable fam trip through Tropical North Queensland.

There’s a scarlet sky overhead, and all around me, nature’s orchestra is tuning up, preparing to fill the balmy night with its mesmerising sounds. 

Rattles, calls and hisses echo through the sultry air of the rainforest, as creatures of all shapes and sizes emerge from their hiding places. As I round the corner, the silhouette of a group of wallabies comes into focus, gracefully poised for a twilight adventure.

I reach my home for the night, a luxurious wooden bungalow set in these verdant surroundings, with the gentle rustle of the rainforest ready to lull me into a deep sleep.

Rich in natural wonders, there are few places in the world where your senses can indulge quite so much as in Tropical North Queensland. I’m lucky enough to be exploring all this with a group of agents, together embarking on an epic adventure along Australia’s coast.

Here, nature is king, demanding respect as well as wonder. Snakes slither through the forest, spiders make their homes in the trees and crocodiles lurk under pristine waters – though there’s plenty of friendlier fauna too, so don’t let nature-loving clients miss out.

They can experience back-to-back bucket-list adventures here, not least at the Great Barrier Reef, the major magnet for the region, where an ethereal, underwater world is revealed in all its beauty.

While Cairns is the classic gateway to the reef, we travelled north to the small and intimate resort of Port Douglas. From here, we went on a full-day excursion with local provider Quicksilver.

Arriving at the pontoon moored in the outer reef, I anxiously pulled on my reassuringly named ‘stinger suit.’ This protects head to toe against the lethal sting of the box jellyfish, whose venom is among the deadliest in the world.

The floating activity platform has been designed with a range of abilities in mind. There are several scuba and snorkelling expeditions, as well as roped areas for visitors who wish to explore independently.

Once I ventured below the surface, I discovered why this place is so deserving of its World Heritage Status. Vivid coral morphed into a multi-layered, subterranean city, while stripy clownfish shimmered past, green turtles came to greet me, and an array of fascinating sea creatures dazzled like iridescent underwater stars.

Seeing the reef from the air by helicopter was an equally breathless experience. As the pilot dipped and dived, the colours of the reef popped and exploded into a palette of dreamy greens and blues. GBR Helicopters has a 30-minute Reef Discovery tour from £223 from Port Douglas or Cairns.

Tropical North Queensland isn’t just about the Great Barrier Reef, though. Not content with one World Heritage Site, the mighty Daintree Rainforest is also located here.

Thought to be around 165 million years old, it is one of the oldest rainforests in the world. As we began our trek across this ancient ground, a labyrinth maze of knotted trees seemed to whisper memories of long ago.

We heard about the primitive flowers that lived when dinosaurs roamed the earth, and about the elusive cassowary, a huge prehistoric bird with almost mythical status.

Only a privileged few ever see the endangered bird, with its shaggy black feathers and electric-blue head. It is thought that its odd, helmet-like casque is used to detect the low vibrating ‘infrasound’ made by other cassowaries over long distances.

A day cruising the Daintree River introduced us to more of the region’s infamous residents. “Keep your fingers inside the boat,” our guide warned, and before long, we spotted a cunning character on the riverbank, showcasing evolution in its purest form. The crocodile was perfectly camouflaged into its surroundings, looking more like an innocent log than a cunning predator.

Billy Tea Safaris offers a one-day Daintree, Cape Trib and Bloomfield tour, including Daintree River cruise with morning tea, 4x4 drive, rainforest walk, barbecue lunch and afternoon tea, and a visit to Cape Tribulation beach, from £115 per adult.

For clients wanting a real castaway experience, Fitzroy Island is located just 18 miles off the coast of Cairns.

We reached it via a thrilling journey on the high-speed catamaran, run by adventure travel provider Raging Thunder Adventures (from £44 for a half-day island visit). 
As we bounced over the waves, my first glimpse of this tropical haven appeared: luminous greens punctuated only by a few colourful kayaks leaning against a boat shed, while a tempting ocean trampoline stood in the impossibly clear water.

Available to visit either as a day trip or for a longer stay, the island resort is also a national park and offers a range of four-star accommodation including ocean suites, studios, beach cabins and apartments.

When not kayaking, snorkelling, boating or visiting the turtle sanctuary, clients can experience one of several walking trails. I embarked on a hike to ‘Australia’s best beach’ and on arrival, understood exactly why it had pulled in the votes.

Instead of the classic white powdery sand I had imagined, treasures of the reef carpeted the ground. Ancient shells and rocks in vivid hues glittered in the sun, while hypnotic fish elegantly danced through the clear waters.

The natural surroundings of Tropical North Queensland were a sharp contrast to shiny Brisbane, our gateway to the region thanks to a flight with Philippine Airlines via Manila.

Formerly in the shadow of booming tourist hubs such as Sydney, the city is experiencing a rebirth, with a host of new hotels and development focusing on leisure, rather than business, travellers.

With its sparkling skyline and river that lazily wraps itself around the city, it is a good option for families, who can expect a relaxed and unhurried pace. It is an ideal base for touring destinations such as the Gold Coast and for clients en route to Tropical North Queensland, which can be reached in a short flight of about two and a half hours.

Boutique breweries, Bohemian coffee houses and a diverse restaurant and bar scene fill the city. South Bank is the centre of the action and features parkland, attractions and several festivals throughout the year.

A bike tour along the river is a particularly enjoyable way to see the city. Brisbane by Bicycle has guided bike tours from £39.

The city has certainly emerged from its cocoon to celebrate what makes it unique in its own right. If the goal is for visitors to leave feeling they have had an authentic Australian city experience, then it’s right on track.

As I boarded the aircraft back home, after reef and rainforest, resort island and riverside bike ride, it was clear Queensland has more going for it than just the Sunshine Coast.

queensland.com, visitbrisbane.com.au