Cycling the Danube
Cycling the Danube
Get the day to day details of cycling along the banks of the Danube, writes Jeannine Williamson.
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As I unscrew the cap on the tiny bottle and take my first cautious swig of Magenbitter, it’s pretty clear the tipple brewed by monks at Austria’s only Trappist monastery is not your usual energy drink.
But the unexpectedly sweet herbal spirit does the trick, and I set off with a renewed spurt of muscle and pedal power, as we tackle the next section of the trip.
Having hardly been on a bicycle since childhood, and with any more recent cycling confined to the occasional spinning class at the gym, I hadn’t been too sure about signing up for a 178-mile, self-guided ride between Passau and Vienna.
This stretch of the Danube is normally associated with sedate river cruises, effortlessly transporting passengers from one scenic highlight to the next. But for those in the know, it’s the most popular stretch of the Danube Bike Trail, which runs alongside the celebrated waterway and is – for hardcore types and anyone by the name of Chris Froome or Bradley Wiggins – part of the EuroVelo 6 cross-European cycle route running from France to Romania.
However, it didn’t take long for my literal and metaphorical wobbles to disappear, as we headed off along the wide, flat paths that make up most of the trail. Armed with Inghams’ idiot-proof maps, the convenience of luggage being whisked from hotel to hotel, the option to fork out an extra £65 for a power-assisted e-bike and ‘get-out clauses’ to travel sections of the route by boat or train, it soon becomes clear that this trip is just as achievable for families with young children as it is for active older travellers who want to experience the Danube from a different perspective.
According to the government’s National Travel Survey, 7% of Brits aged five-plus cycle at least three times a week, which equates to about 4.2 million children and adults. Bike traffic has risen almost every year since 2008, with some 3.5 billion miles clocked up in 2016. This growing interest in cycling, coupled with the suitability of this trip for a wide demographic, means it’s a great time to suggest clients get on their bikes. So what can they expect?
Day one: Passau
How far: 0 miles
See: Pretty Passau is uniquely situated at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers, and a sightseeing cruise is included in the holiday. The top sights include St Stephen’s cathedral, home to the world’s largest church organ. At noon each day, it thunders into life, and visitors can attend the 30-minute concert for a small fee.
Afterwards, enjoy a beer on the waterfront and pick up a feather-trimmed Bavarian hat or, for the brave, a pair of traditional lederhosen from the souvenir shops. Then it’s time for an early night ready for the start of the next day’s adventure.
Day two: Passau to Schlongener Schlinge
How far: 24 miles
See: After getting fitted with bikes at a vast cycling store, riders set off along the cycle path and cross the border into Austria. Each morning, luggage is left at the hotel reception and magically reappears at that night’s accommodation. The route from Passau to Vienna is slightly downhill all the way, which is why most people tackle it in this direction. So rookie cyclists don’t have to worry too much about avoiding people coming the opposite way.
Stop at Engelszell Monastery to stock up on Magenbitter, before taking one of the dinky ferries across the river to rejoin the cycle path on the opposite bank – you even get to summon the ferryman by ringing a bell.
Hotel Donauschlinge, set on a dramatic horseshoe bend, is one of the most memorable overnight stops, plus it’s got a wonderful pool and spa to ease saddle soreness.
Day three: Schlogener Schlinge to Linz
How far: 32 miles
See: An early-morning walk to the top of steep Schlögener Blick is rewarded with spectacular views of the curving riverscape. The daily schedule always allows time for extended coffee and lunch stops, and hearty Austrian food – think dumplings and apple strudel – is the perfect fuel for active breaks. There’s an option to cycle 17 miles and take a boat to Linz, Austria’s third-largest city and former European Capital of Culture.
Day four: Linz to Maria Taferl
How far: 50 miles
See: This is the big day – but if it’s too much, you can use the included train ticket to travel from Linz to Dornach and cycle a more manageable 22 miles to the hotel. If you’re tackling the whole section, stop off in Grein, where actors still tread the boards in Austria’s oldest municipal theatre. A tour of the tiny playhouse, which dates back to 1791, reveals the old jail where inmates could watch performances through the bars, and a very public toilet separated from the auditorium only by a flimsy curtain.
Do you think you could cycle 50 miles on one day?
Do you think you could cycle 50 miles on one day?
Day five: Maria Taferl to Castle Artstetten
How far: 9 miles
See: Stretch tired legs with a gentle stroll around Maria Taferl, where the distinctive yellow and white basilica is a pilgrimage site. There’s the option for a round-trip cycle ride, with a small uphill stretch, to fairytale Artstetten Castle, the former summer retreat of the royal house of Habsburg.
Day six: Maria Taferl
How far: 31 miles
See: This headline day features the Unesco-listed Wachau Valley, where terraced vineyards stretch down to the river and part of the route meanders between the vines. Landmark Melk Abbey perches on top of a rocky outcrop and resembles a palace rather than a Benedictine monastery. The imperial corridor is lined with portraits of Austrian rulers, and the cavernous library, with beautiful ceiling paintings, contains about 90,000 books. Aching muscles? Then cycle 14 miles to Melk, take a boat to Durnstein and pedal the remaining four miles to Krems.
Day seven: Krems to Vienna
How far: 32 miles
See: Saddle up for a morning cycle through rural areas and stop off in Tulln for a last lunch by the Danube. One of Austria’s oldest towns, it’s famous for its fountains and flowers. Say farewell to the trusty metal steeds at the bike drop-off point on the outskirts of Vienna, before catching a train to the city centre. If you’ve got the energy, grand palaces and museums await. Alternatively, head to one of the Austrian capital’s atmospheric wood-panelled cafes for a creamy Wiener melange coffee and big slice of chocolate Sachertorte. You’ve earned it!
Sample product
Inghams’ seven-night Treasures of the Danube Passau to Vienna unescorted cycling tour costs from £859 B&B; add an extra £132 for half-board and £188 for full-board. The price includes flights, airport transfers, bike hire, route map, daily luggage transfer service, three Danube boat trips and a return on the Pöstlingberg mountain railway.
agents.inghams.co.uk
“For first-time cyclists, families or for those looking for a gentle introduction to cycling in Europe, the unescorted cycle ride from Passau to Vienna ticks all the boxes. Suitable for all levels of fitness, the route is flat, traffic-free and easy.
Lydia Crisostomo, PR executive, Inghams
Did you pay attention?
What was the name of the UNESCO-listed site that features on day six?